Description : Wool is a comfortable and versatile fabric, warm in the winter and cool in the sumer. In addition, wool fabric is elastic, drapes well, and repels water droplets, however it absorbs water vapour. Nonetheless, wool can aborb up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling damp. The fabric resists wrinkling, returning to its natural shape when relaxed. It stretches by about a third when dry, and up to about half its length when wet. It resists static electricity as well, except in a very dry air. Wool will discolor and deteriorate under prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Fabrication : Wool fibre and yarn is produced from a special class of animal body hair, mostly from sheep, but also from goats (cashmere, angora and mohair), llamas (alpaca), camels and rabbits. Wool, however, is different from either hair or fur. It has a distinct texture, handle, elasticity and it grows in clusters (called staples). These properties derive from the presence of significant crimp. Crimp is the term used to describe a fibre with many bends per unit length - high crimp fibres have a much higher capacity to be spun. Crimp is also related to the thickness of the yarn. Wools may have a range of crimp properties, with higher crimp producing finer yarns and greater market value. The wool is obtained by shearing the animal and then removing excess seeds, burr and oils from the resulting fleece. The fleece is then sorted into different quality categories called grades, based on the thickness of the fibre. The label "100% wool" does not necessarily indicate high quality wool, as recycled wool can be used in its fabrication. Only "virgin wool" is a guarantee of quality - to use the label, no more than 7% of other fibres can be present. For "pure virgin wool", the permitted use of other fibres drops to 0.3%
Subtypes : Wool spun for the first time is called virgin wool; so-called shoddy wool (sometimes called recycled wool) is produced by tearing apart wool fibre and respinning it. This results in shorter fibres and hence lower quality wool. Two distinct types of wool fabrics are made - woolens and worsteds. Woolens are woven from woolen yarns, while worsteds are made from worsted yarns. Woolens are soft, fuzzy and may have a rough texture. The yarns are made of short fibres with a moderate twist. Worsteds are smooth, strong and have more lustre than woolens. The yarns are twisted more. Woolens are easier to sew and less expensive than worsteds. They include bulky tweeds, coatings, washable wools and some flannels. Worsteds are tightly woven and rarely sag or bag. They have a smooth, hard surface. Examples include gabardine, serge, twill and suiting. Many variants of wool can be commonly found.
Dyes, color treatment and washing characteristics : Wool shrinks substantially when washed. It should therefore be pre-shrunk before being used to make a garment. The best way to pre-shrink is during dry-cleaning, however, it can also be done at home.
Draping properties : Many, but not all wools have good drape, and most have high shear (the ability to retain designed shape). Many patterns which call for darts should be modified to take advantage of the ease provided by wool fabrics.
Cutting properties : Do not use wax markers. Pressing should be done with a medium hot iron and steam - a damp pressing cloth is usually appropriate.
Sewing challenges : Lightweight wools can be easily marked by seam ripping or overlarge needles, and by improper pressing. Use lightweight interfacing, when interfacing is needed. Linings may also be used for comfort or opacity - some woolen fabrics may be irritating to the skin. Zippers, buttons and snaps should all be lightweight for lightweight wool fabrics. Pocket openings should be stabilized before sewing for most wool fabrics, to prevent stretching during the sewing process. Pocket linings should be made from a lightweight lining material rather than the wool fabric itself to reduce bulk. Press often, especially with bulky or heavyweight wool fabrics. Many wool fabrics fray readily and the seams may need to be overlocked as a result. Dresses should be hung 24 hours before the hem line is marked, as they may stretch. Consider using a narrow hem, to reduce weight at the hem line.
Example creations : Pleated dress, grey skirt, orange top, blue lambswool dress, tan cropped jacket, green hat, grey coat, cloche hat, high-waisted pants, Muschi jacket, plaid bubble coat, tank top, tailored jacket,
Uses worldwide : Fabrics that use wool fibres include the following - barathea; bouclé; challis; chenille; crêpe; felt; flannel; fleece; gabardine; herringbone; jersey; loden; melton; nun's veiling; serge; and tweed.
Origins and history : According to legend, the Babylonians used wool as early as 4000 B.C. The Britons wore crude wool garments by about 3000 B.C., probably made by pressing the fibres rather than weaving them. The tablets from Ur dated to about 2000 B.C. describe women and girls weaving wool.
Wikipedia reference

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